
A M E R .1 C A N S C S i 1 ) L ^CQMESPO K D E If? 

CBi ICA o O I ML I NO IS 




Class JTS^tfW 

Book ;4£___ 

Gop\Tight N° 

COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



' 



HARDWARE 



INSTRUCTION PAPER 



PR l.l'.l RED BY 



James C. Plant, 

Superintendent ok Computing Division, 

Office of Supervising Architect, 

Treasury, Washington, D. C. 



AMERICAN SCHOOL OF CORRESPONDENCE 

CHICAGO ILLINOIS 

U.S.A. 






^ulBHAftT of C'jN^t^ 

two OO0I C3 nn 

JUN t3 iyob 
, 7.07^ 



Copyright 1908 by 
American School ok Correspondence 



Entered at Stationers' Hall, London 
All Rights Reserved 



HARDWARE 



Introductory. Hardware in building is generally considered to 
embrace all metallic appliances of a mechanical nature. For example 
nails, screws binding the various parts together, hinges permitting 
movement, and locks to secure moving parts in place, are all in the 
nature of mechanical appliances. Ornamental metallic parts, such 
as railings, grilles, steps, etc., cannot be classed under this head. 

There is no other division of building materials in which the 
variety is so great or the range of each variety so wide. The distance, 
for example, separating the cast-iron lock (Fig. 1), at one dollar and 
a-quarter a dozen, from the cylinder front-door lock (Fig. 2), at 
seventy-five dollars a dozen, is great. If, however, we were to trace 
the evolution from the 
one to the other, we 
should find that the 
extremes are connected 
by "such fine gradations 
and steps that nowhere 
can any break in type be 
detected: there is no 
missing link. 

The same conditions 
in varying extent apply 
to all other classes of 
hardware — hinges, bolts, 
etc.— and to a buyer 
who consults cata- 
logues, comes the further complication that all items are sold, not 
according to the price list, but on discounts from such lists. The 
word discounts is here used advisedly, for there is no one, single 
discount applied to all classes of hardware. For different types of 
appliances, there are different discounts. Some items are sold as 
high as 10 per cent off; the next may carry a discount of 75 per cent; 




Fig. 1. Cbeap Casl-Iron Lock. 



HARDWARE 



and, between these, discounts arc varied and graded as delicately as 
are the types themselves. 

Time has had a marked effect in changing the character of hard- 
ware. The hitches, knockers, or locks of 150 years hack are very 
differenl from any of the types characteristic of to-day; and while the 
imitations which can now be made are good in their way, still nowhere 
in the 150 years is there a marked break in the line of development 
from the prized antique to the best production of the present day. 

As a plain example, take the nails and holts forged in the "fac- 
tory" of Jefferson at Monticello, and nearly one hundred years ago 

used in the trusses over the old 
Senate Chamber at the Capitol in 
Washington (Fig. 3); compare them 
with those in use to-day, and then 
try to have duplicates forged; and 
the difficulty of getting the spirit of 
the past, even in simple things, will 
he appreciated. 

Nationality serves also to ring 
the changes. The French artisan 
will m ke a delicate hut strong appli- 
ance which reflects unconsciously the 
influence of the objects of art with 
which he can and does daily come 
in contact. The Louvre, with its 
innumerable treasures of art — freely 
open to the street-sweeper in his 
blouse, as well as to the rich — has 
its effect on national production. 
Tin English, from the same design, will produce something not 
so delicate, nor with such an artistic "go;" but it will be strong, 
heavy in fact, English. 

The American will make the best reproduction of the design it is 
possible to gel from his machinery in large lots; but it often lacks the 
line touch of the artist, which the French impart, or the evident firra- 
ness "f purpose of the English. 

Also we find the personal element exerting a strong influence. 
As far hack as can be traced in history, different men have considered 




Fig. 2. Cylindi r Pront-Door Lock. 



HARDWARE 



that they possessed certain qualities, or existed under certain con- 
ditions, peculiar to themselves, which in a way distinguished them 
from their fellows; and they have tried to illustrate such qualities by 
means of insignia borne by them and put in conspicuous places in 
their abodes. In this way the escutcheon has always been used as a 
distinguishing symbol. 

Comparatively little attention is paid to heraldry nowadays, 
especially in America. The use of the symbol on the escutcheon is, 
in this country, a survival of old customs now ran ly seen. The 
name of escutcheon., however, still clings to what is the most con- 




Fig. 3. "Jefferson"' Nails and Bolts. 
From Trusses of Old Senate Chamber in Capitol. Washington, D. C 



spicuous piece of house hardware now in use; and this piece of hard- 
ware tells the story of the general character of the householder who 
selected it, just as truly as did the escutcheon of the wandering knight 
of mediaeval years. 

It will not be the province of this paper to settle the style or 
kind of hardware which should be selected by people of different tem- 
peraments, or to suit any design; individual tastes and judgment must 
in each case govern; but it will be its province, in a general way, 
to point out the characteristics of the material now obtainable, the 
intention being to offer something more in the nature of suggestion 
than as an absolute guide. 



HARDWARE 



NAILS AND SCREWS 

These embrace the class of most uninteresting hardware — so 
commonplace as hardly to demand attention; hut they play, after all, 
a large part in modern construction, and have had the greatest influ- 
ence in the evolution of the now almost extinct trade of joinery, as 
understood a hundred years ago. 

By reference to the cut of the "Jefferson" nail (Fig. 3), it will 
lie seen thai it is a wedge more adapted to splitting all wood through 
which ic is driven than to make the parts more secure. It was the 
successor of the oak pin of Colonial days, and was used in much the 
same way. Alter the parts were must carefully fitted together, holes 
were bored only slightly smaller than the nail, and the latter was 
driven in to se- 
cure the close 
contact of the 
pa its, which, 
indeed, were al- 
ready fitted so 
nicely that they 
would cling to- 
gether w i t h i 
v c ry slight 
hinder. 

Fig. 4 is the end of a timber taken from the < lapitol, which shows 
how the splice joint was made; this was a joiner's fit, which took 
very little to complete the union. Through all the work of joinery — - 
illustrated by this close lilting -the same principles extended, so that 
tin- use of nails of the Jefferson type was very limited. 

Screws, except in very crude forms, were seldom used. Fig. 3 
shows holts and a nut of the same period taken from the Capitol 
trusses. It will he noted that ill order to make their use possible, the 
parts must have been accurately fitted. 

\N ith modern machinery for making nails and screws, came a revo- 
lution in carpentry work. The old mortise-and-teiion timber frame 
gave way to the balloon frame. Joinery died a natural death, as it 
was found much cheaper simply to lay the pieces together and drive 
spikes or nails until the whole was solid. In many instances the use 
of spikes or nails was carried to extremes — in fact, their use became 




I'il-.i. End ol a Piece ol Old Timber from Capitol, Wash- 
ington, D. U., Showing Former Method of 
Slaking Spaced Joint, 



HARDWARE 



reckless; and so important is their place in construction work, even 
to-day, that it is a by-word, that "any man is a carpenter who can 
drive a nail." Rut the man who can select the right nail or screw, 
ami drive it where it is needed, and in the right way, is a rare man. 

From the strictly practical standpoint, nails and screws may be 
divided into two classes — First, those used in construction work only; 
second, those used in construction work so exposed as to recpiire 
consideration of the appearances they present. 

For the first, round wire nails are now used almost exclusively. 
The older cut nail is wedge-shaped, with two rough sides, which make 
it hard to drive and which tear the fibre of the wood; the wedge shape, 
moreover, permits these nails, after they are once started, to be more 
easily drawn out. The wire nail is smooth, does not tear the wood, 
and is more easily driven than the wedge; and, on account of being of 
the same diameter throughout, it holds firmly even after being started 
in withdrawal. 

A nail should never be driven clear through any woodwork so 
that the point appears, unless it is clinched, in which case a wrought- 
iron or "clout" nail is required; the wire nail is too hard to be easily 
bent and clinched. A nail driven clear through so as to expose the 
point unclinehed will not hold so well as one shorter with the end 
buried. 

In the frame, it is not the number of nails that tells, but their 
careful placing in such parts and at such points as to keep the build- 
ing stiff. Nails should be grouped to afford the largest efficiency. 
In nailing the boarding onto a frame, for example, it is necessary to 
put two nails in each board to each stud. One nail would be suffi- 
cient to secure the boards; but, as there is bound to be a slight shrink- 
age drawing the edges of the boards apart, if the frame is not other- 
wise securely braced, a strong wind will rack the structure out of 
plumb until the edges of the boards touch again, the single nail 
in each board allowing a swing which would have been effectually 
stopped by two. 

The smallest nail competent to accomplish the purpose should be 
used, on account of the greater ease with which it can be driven; the 
difference in effort required to drive ten thousand 20d nails and an 
equal number of 16d's is a very material item in expense. 

When strength is obtained by doubling timbers and in trusses, 



HARDWARE 



bolts and nuts with large washers should be used to the exclusion of 
nails, as a sudden jar or a slight shrinkage of the wood will prevent 
the nails clamping the parts closely together, and this separation or 
loosening of the joints materially reduces stiffness and strength. 

The use of wrought-iron nails can with great profit be extended. 
For instance, after a house is boarded up and building paper put on, 
in placing the exterior finish boarding, of whatever nature it may be, 
if the nails are clinched on the inside, the contact will be so close 
as to prevent the opening of cracks between the layers, and in cold 
weather the nails will not "draw" and allow the joints to open. 

Where nails must be used in finished surfaces, all questions of 
general construction must lie dropped, and only such nails used as are 
absolutely necessary to secure the members in place; and special 
attention should he given to selecting nails with such heads as will 
not disfigure the finish. Wire nails of very small diameter and with 
heads only slightly larger in size, are now 
made; and it is remarkable how firmly these 
hold the parts in place. These nails, carefully 
driven and with heads set below the surface 
of the finish, leave a small mark that can be 



Bound-Head Screw 
with Washer. readily hidden with putty colored to match 

the tone of the Wood. 

Wherever possible, nails should be put in the quirks or con- 
cealed places, rather than in plain surfaces where the last blow of 
the hammer is apt to leave a round indentation in the wood. A 
careful carpenter in good work can place his finish so that it can be 
cither nailed or screwed in place from the back, or the nails or screws 
placed so that the heads will be covered or in inconspicuous places. 

In purely constructive work, screws (unless as bolts) are little 
used except in special finish, such as mantels and other cabinet-work 
put together and finished complete before being set in place. 

When it is necessary to provide for the shrinking and swelling 
of the wordwork, round-head screws with washers can be used. Fig. 
5 illustrates such a screw, .1 being the washer; B a long slot, and'C 
the screw; this arrangement allows movement with the screw sliding 
on the washer. 

When it is necessary to use screws in finished surfaces, the treat- 
ment should be exactlv the reverse of that governing the use of nails. 



HARDWARE 



There are many forms of screws on the market, with well- 
formed heads, finished in lacquer, blued, or plated (it is necessary to 
have some finish to prevent rust'). A variety of typical forms are 
shown in Fig. 6. The custom of starting screws with a hammer — in 



J 



Fig. 6. Typical Forms of Screws. 

fact, driving them three-quarters of the way in — should not be 
allowed; a screw with a battered head or not driven in straight, dis- 
figures the work; when started by the hammer, one or both of these 
conditions generally prevail. 






Fig. ". Simp Hing . 

Screws which show should have heads of pronounced shape, 
spaced regularly — in fact, made a feature in the design. 

HINGES AND BUTTS 

This group of hardware is the most important on the list, for 





Fig. 8. Tee-Hinge with Offset. 



if the hinge is out of order or lacking, the door is absolutely useless. 
It matters little if the latch, lock, or bolt be missing; some simple 



HARDWARE 



device will supply the lock and produce the results usually obtained 
from the missing fixture. Without hinges, however, the door cannot 
be operated. 

Hinges, properly speaking, consist in those appliances which 
are secured on the faces of the door and frame. Unfortunately they 
are now made, for the most part, in only the cheap grades, being used 
on barns and gates and in other inferior locations, and are known 
as strap hinges (Fig. 7) or tee-hinges (Fig. 8), etc. 

The possibility of their artistic use is shown in the fact that 
manufacturers of high-grade hardware make a variety of hinge plates 
(Fig. 9) to be screwed on the face of door and frame independent of 
the butt, to represent the complete hinge. 




Flit. 9. HinKi? Plates. 



It is unfortunate that the hinge proper has dropped so completely 
out of the house hardware list. In its simple forms it has character 
and dignity. Some of the best efforts of the Gothic builders and the 
metal workers of the most artistic periods, have been put forth to 
produce hinges of perfect workmanship and design. The attempt 
of the manufacturers to supply the appearance by making the plates 
separate, has led to the production of unduly elaborated face-plates 
of thin metal, which are often screwed on without reference to their 
suitability to the location or surroundings, so that, instead of having 
the appearance of being a minor item for use in swinging the door, 
they give the impression that the door is for the special purpose of 
exhibiting the hardware. 



HARDWARE 



9 




Barn Binge Used oil House i r. 



The simple barn hinge may occasionally be used with propriety 
and good artistic effect. Fig. 10 shows a common form of the hinge 
on a house door where the finished timbers show throughout. These 
hinges are fastened by small lag-screws, and, while inexpensive, give 
a very artistic air to 
a common stock dour. 
Rut there is difficulty 
when such appliances 
are used, in finding 
other fixtures to carry 
out the idea. In the 
case above referred to, 
it was necessary to 
have a latch forged 
specially (Fig. 11), as 
nothing suitable of stock pattern could be found. 

The hutl (Fig. 12) is that style of hinge (butt hinge) commonly 
used in swinging doors, sashes, etc., which is screwed to the butt 
edge of the door and which can be fully seen only when the door is 
open; when shut; only the knuckles of the butt are visible. 

Modern custom requires, 
in the large majority of 
cases, that the conventional 
butt be used, and it should 
receive the careful consid- 
eration of the designer. 
There are many efforts to 
give ornamental effects, 
even in the cheapest of 
cast-iron butts, by working 
patterns on the parts never 
seen except when the door 
is wide open, and by mak- 
ing ornamental tips on the 
pin which fastens them to- 
gether (Fig. 13). These 
attempts are unfortunate, generally serving merely to empha- 
size the cheap character of the article; and the plain black, 




11. Forged Latch to Accompany Hing 
o( Fig. 10. 



10 



HARDAYARE 



smooth surface is always to be preferred. With slight modifications, 
these objections may be raised against almost all attempts to make 
ornamental butts in other materials. 

Door Butis (and this is, so far, the largest class) are made of 
cast iron, wrought iron, brass, or bronze, the expense increasing 
in that order. The cast-iron door butt should be avoided if possible, 
on account of its brittleness allowing it to break under slight stress, 
when the door, in falling, often does damage which costs more to 
repair than would a very expensive butt at the beginning. 

Fig. 14 shows the or- 
dinary type of a five- 
knuckled loose- pin 
wrought-steel butt. The 
knuckles are marked A. 
If the door is hung to 
the wing E, it is evident 
that the bearing points 
of the butt will be at B, 
B; if the door is hang on 
the wing marked F, the 
bearing points will be 
C, C. D is the head of 
the loose pin, which ex- 
tends through the 
knuckles, as indicated by 
dotted lines; this can be 
withdrawn when it is de- 

^^ sired to take down the 

IS Plain Butt Loose-Fin Type. i 

For ordinary doors the butt should not be less than four inches 
high, with fixe knuckles to each butt for the loose-pin type. An 
examination will show that there are always two bearings on each 
five-knuckled butt, so that if there are three butts to a door there are 
always six bearing points; and when the weight of the door is con- 
sidered, with the fact that all this weight is carried from one side, 
the necessity for ample bearings will be appreciated. The loose pin 
allows the doors to be taken down readily; and when, from excessive 
use, the bearings have become worn, it also allows the placing of steel 



HARDWARE 



11 



washers (Fig. 15) be- 
tween the knuckles, to 
take up the worn por- 
tions. 

Wrought - steel butts 
can be had in plain ma- 
terial and fair workman- 
ship, -i by 4 inches, as 
low as $1.30 a dozen 
pairs, with screws; and 
from that up to 87.00 
a dozen fitted with 
ball bearings and 
bronze-plated. The best 
grade of what is com- 
monly k n o w n as the 
Stanley butt is a good 
example of this type. 
Butts are now often 
made with ball bearings 





Fig. 14. Common Five-Knuckled Loose-Pin Butt. 



Ornamental Cast-Iron Butt, Loose-Pin Type. 

16), which greatly improve the 
wearing qualities. 

Wrought-iron butts are also 
finished in various ways (es- 
pecially in Bower Barfj, to 
which finish reference is made 
later), and in fact can be com- 
bined with almost any line of 
hardware fi lish. They are to 
be recommended on account 
of their mechanical perfection. 
Cast brass or bronze is used 
in expensive w r ork, but to be 
efficient must be very heavy. 
The material is softer than 
iron; and if the bearing parts 
are not protected, they wear 
rapidly; a drop of one thirty- 
second of an inch in the 



12 



HARDWARE 



door on account of such wear, will at once cause inconveni- 
ence - 





Fig. 15. Steel Washer fox Butt. 



Fig. 16. Ball Bearings for Butt. 




Fig. IT. Steel Plate Bushing 1 
between Butt Knuckles. 



The protection against wearing of the knuckles may be by ball 
bearings, as above shown (Fig. 1<>), or, as in the more general prac- 
tice, by bushings consisting of thin 
steel plates (as shown by the stippled 
part in Fig. 17) set in each face of 
each knuckle so that they receive all 
the wear and relieve the softer metal. 
In these plates are slight indentations 
(not stippled) which hold oil for an 
indefinite period. This oil lubri- 
cates the b earing s. Often the 
knuckles are bored out, and a steel 
cylinder inserted as a bushing. 

When it is advisable to use real bronze for butts, expense 
should not be spared — f"~ 

to get the best from 
a mechanical standpoint. 
It is always a safe rule 
to get the cheaper ma- 
terial with perfect 
workmanship, rather 
than expensive material 
of indifferent workman- 
ship. 

There are many 
"ornamental" brass and 
bronze butts made by 

Casting designs On the *"*B* 18 - Showing Necessity for Projection of Door Butt. 

surface and emphasizing the effect by polishing the raised parts. 



■J- 

_L 



DOOR 



- FINISH 



FRAME 



HARDWARE 



13 



This does not add to the distinctness of the design, and only 
leaves the impression of a "well-broken" surface. It will be noted 
thai, in general, the plainer the bvM, the higher the price, and the 
highest grades of butts are rarely of the ornamental variety. 

There is little ornamental value in the knuckles of a butt. A 
butt should, therefore, be of such a size as to project as little as 
possible beyond the door or frame. The only point to be carefully 
seen to, is that it shall extend outward far enough to throw the 
door clear of the trim or woodwork at the side. Thus the pro- 
jection at a, Fig. IS, should be a trifle more than one-half the 
distance b, in order to carry the door, when opened back, clear of 
the side trim. 

After the decision relative to the style 
of hinges or butts to be used is made, the 
closest attention should be given to the 
mechanism. A door in common use will 
wear its hinges with astonishing rapidity. 
Three hinges should always be used on a 
door. The third hinge, or the one at half 
the height, keeps the door from springing, 
and relieves the strain on the other two, so 
that the door is more easily operated; and 
it also gives 50 per cent additional wearing 
resistance. 

The same reason for using; loose-pin Fig. 19. cheap Type of spring 

° " Butt. 

butts as above given for -doors, apply to 

the hanging of all items swinging on upright bearings — such 
as cupboard doors, window-sash, etc.; and it is sometimes nec- 
essary to use much care in the selection, in order that the swinging 
parts may turn clear of all obstructions or fold back on themselves, 
as with inside blinds. 

Where the swing is from horizontal bearings, the pins should 
always be fixed — that is, so made that they cannot be removed. In 
an upright position gravity holds them in place; but when put hori- 
zontally, the swinging of the sash works the pin loose, and in time 
it is apt to fall out and allow the sash to drop, this being the case par- 
ticularly in- swinging transom sash. 

Besides the types of butts above referred to, there are many 




14 



HARDWARE 



appliances properly classed under this head designed for special 

service, such as spring butts and double-acting butts. 

Spring Butts. Spring butts are those in which a spring is placed 

so as to force the door closed when not held open by some other force. 

These vary from the light type commonly used on wire-screen doors, 
costing from 10 to 15 cents a pair (Fig. 
19), to heavy bronze butts with a high- 
grade metal spring in the joint, costing 
$5.00 a pair (Fig. 20), which can be reg- 
ulated to give either a strong or a light 
reaction. 

The disadvantages of this type are 
that they rack the door by constant 
slamming; they are much more expensive 
than butts of the same material without 
the spring; and when once installed, it 
is practically impossible to throw the 
spring out of service. For the light and 
cheaper work, a single spiral spring (Fig. 
21), costing from 15 to 25 cents, can be 

used independently of the butt; it is easily unhooked when not 

needed. 

For the better grades of work and heavier doors, a spring check 

should be used (such as is described under Miscellaneous Hardware), 

which will close the door promptly and prevent slamming. 




Fig. 20. 



Heavy Bronze Spring 
Butt. 




Common Type of Spiral Spring for Doors. 



Double=Acting Butts. The function of the double-acting butt 
is to allow the door to swing to both sides of the jamb. It is neces- 
sarily of the spring-butt type, above mentioned, but is double and is so 
set as to leave the door shut when at rest. There are no cheap types 
of this butt on the market, and the work required makes the best 
mechanism necessary. There are no appliances which can be sub- 



HARDWARE 



15 




Fig. 22. Sravity Blind Hinge 

In selecting double- 
acting butts, always get 
a large size capable of 
doing the work easily, as 
the jar on a light butt as 
the door passes the cl< ise< 1 
point will quickly rack 
a light appliance into a 
useless condition. In 
house building, the use 
of double-acting springs 
is usually confined to 
china-closet doors, and 
in public buildings to 
entrance doors. In a very 
large number of cases a little 
study will devise means of 
substituting simpler appli- 
ances. For a public build- 
ing, for example, two single- 
acting doors can be used — 
one for entering and the other 
for outgoing traffic. 

Blind Hinges. Outside 
blind hinges are important 
items, especially in rural d ; s- 
tricts in the North and 



stituted as in the case of simple 
single-spring hinges. In order to 
do the work satisfactorily, a very 
large hinge is required — too large 
to be ornamental — so that certain 
types are embedded in the floor, 
out of sight; these are peculi- 
arly adapted to heavy doors when 
the floors are of Mosaic so that 
the hinge can be firmly bedded in 
concrete. 




Fig. 33. Wrought-Iron Blind Hinge. 





Fig. 31. Device to Hold 
Blind Open. 



1G 



HARDWARE 




Fig. 25. Blind Adjuster. 



throughout the South, where blinds are a necessity. The usual 
cast-iron gravity blind hinge (Fig. 22) is a very cheap and un- 
satisfactory fixture. The smallest jar or blow will break hinges of 

this type. A heavy 



wind, catching the 
blind, will often 
slam it with suffi- 
cient force to break 
the window glass. 
It is much better 
to procure some 
type of wrought- 
iron hinge (Fig. 23), 

and a separate appliance to hold the blind open (Fig. 24). This 

type of hinge is also rather ornamental, the part fastened to the 

face of the blind being in the true sense of the term a hinge-plate. 
A blind adjuster 

is indicated in Fig. 

2.">. There are sev- 
eral appliances on 

the market which 

accomplish the 

same result — that 

is, holding t h e 

blinds secure at 

any angle up to 

about C>0° from the 

sash plane. It is 

very desirable to 

install these fixtures 

- which are strong, 

and which hold the 

blind firmly — where 

blinds with fixed 

slats rather than Fls ' * A "" nint ' Blnd Hinge ia Use - 

n-lling slats are used. If a substantial blind is desired, the fixed 

slats should always be used; the light passing blinds opened only two. 

or three inches is very agreeable. 




I-IAUmVARE 17 



There is also on the market an aiming blind hinge. This per- 
mits the blinds to swing in the usual way, and, in addition, to be 
clamped together; and with the tops against the house, the bottom 
can be set out from one to two feet like an awning (Fig. 26), giving 
a delightful soft light inside. But to accomplish all that is desired, 
it appears to be necessary to make these hinges delicate and light ; 
and a little hard usage or a heavy wind will break them, so that the 
greatest care must always be exercised when operating these blinds, 
to leave them secure; and generally it may be said that such fixtures 
are unsuitable for wide or heavy blinds. 

LOCKS 

As has been stated, the hinge is the most important item of 
hardware from the standpoint of necessity or convenience; but it is 
apparently the general sentiment of both sellers and buyers, that the 
lock is the central figure. The manufacturer puts more thought on 
it than on any other appliance ; and in selecting hardware, the custome r 
generally devotes most of his attention to it. Perhaps the reason for 
this discrimination is that the lock symbolizes protection and defense; 
the term symbolize is here used because, on an analysis, the lock is 
rather a symbol than a real physical protection. 

With the advancement in the art of lock-making, the knowledge 
of methods of nullifying the safeguard afforded by locks has also 
advanced, so that there are no locks to-day which cannot with more or 
less ease be operated by unauthorized persons. When elaborate and 
intricate locks are used, it is often ridiculous to see on what flimsy 
doors they are placed, and also what delicate and flimsy locks are 
placed on ponderous doors. 

A brief study of the conditions usually surrounding the placing 
of locks will show the absurdity of expending large sums of money 
and of buying intricate locks with an idea of obtaining protection 
thereby. Under ordinary conditions, the moral effect of the lock is 
enough to afford protection; but when the experienced cracksman or 
determined burglar seeks to obtain entrance, neither moral effects 
nor mechanical appliances are a bar. 

The object of the foregoing is to set forth the province which 
a lock should be considered as filling — or rather to show the province 
it does not fill — so that in buying this most expensive of hardware, 



li 



HARDWARE 



funds needed elsewhere may not be expended in intricate mechanism 
of doubtful protective value. 

Locks are either of the rim type or of the mortise type. The 
rim lock is fastened on the face of the door (Fig. 27). It should 
be used only when protection is desired from the outside, as, for 
instance, on store or office entrance doors, and possibly outskle 
house-doors. Locks of this type are usually operated by means of a 
k< -\ Prom the outside and a thumb-piece from the inside; if of a type 
requiring a key for both sides, they are no protection on the side on 
which they are visible, as the removal of one screw will usually allow 
of sufficient change of position of the lock to release the bolt Rim 

locks are not ornamen- 
tal, are generally made 
of ordinary cast-iron, 
and their use should be 
avoided in the better 
grades of work. 

The mortise lock is set 
into the face of the door, 
so that only the face- 
plate, with bolt and 
latch, shows on the edge 
when open (Fig. 28). 

I'il:. 27. Kim Lock. T ... 

inasmuch as it is neces- 
sary to cut out the woodwork of the door to place a lock of this 
type, the first consideration in its selection should be one of size. 
The smallest and thinnest lock which will serve the purpose should 
In' chosen. 

As all the parts except the face-plate are hidden in the mortise, 
there is no use in ornamental work. The exposed face is usually 
plain brass or bronze; the case is generally cast iron or pressed steel, 
which should be heavy enough to hold its shape firmly, without 
springing or cracking if for any reason the mortise for which it is 
intended is not of the proper shape or size, which it rarely is. 

After the question as to the use of a rim or a mortise lock is 
settled, another, covering just what is wanted of each lock, should 
be carefully considered, so that appliances will not be installed which 
are never to be used. Practically all locks contain a latch — that is, 




HARDWARE 



ID 



the part which is operated by the knobs and which holds the door 
closed under ordinary conditions. As the latch is the part subject 
to most frequent use, it is very desirable that its mechanism be. as 
simple as possible and that all moving parts be of brass or bronze. 
The use of iron, except in the casing, should be avoided. 

It is often observed, 
in finished work, that the 
latch is not easily pushed 
back when the door is 
shut, making it necessary 
to turn the knob or to 
give more than an ordi- 
nary slam to latch the 
door. This is caused by 
badly fitting parts, poor 
springs, and the shape 
of the latch-face. If the 
latter is a simple line as 
illustrated in Fig. 29, it 
will probably cause con- 
stant annoyance. I f , 
however, the latch-face is 
carefully shaped after the 
manner shown in Fig. 30, there will be less, if any, trouble. 

The latch should be heavy. It receives hard usage, and 
heavier it is, the more evenly it 
responds to pressure. There are 
various anti-friction devices 
on the market, but they are 
rarely any improvement over 
the well-designed and well- 
manufactured latch-face. 
Should the selection, however, 
be unfortunate, and the opera- 
tion of the latch unsatisfac- 
tory, conditions can be reme- 
died to a certain extent by occasionally oiling the face of the strike 
with a heavy oil which will not readily disappear. 




Fig. 28. Mortise Lock. 



the 




Fig. 29. Unsatisfactory 

Outline for Latch 

Face. 



LJ 



Fig. 30. Better Outline 
for Latch Face. 



20 



HARDWARE 



In a large majority of cases, this latch (Fig. 28) will perform 
all the necessary functions of the lock and latch for outside doors 
if it is arranged with stopwark on the face. By pushing in one button, 
it can be operated from the outside only by means of a key; by revers- 
ing the button, it becomes a latch operated by knobs from both 
sides, ruder the former condition it is as secure a lock as is the 

dead bolt operated by a key inde- 
pendent of the latch — a device 
which, while often considered a 
necessity for outside doors, is 
rarely used. 

Inside doors rarely require a 
lock; and where they are not 
really needed, it is not wise to 
arrange for a possible future need, since in most cases, if such need 
arises, the keys will either have been lost or have become hopelessly 




Pig. :il. Latch-Key ol Plat-Key Type. 



Iii selecting door locks, the first and most important considera- 
tion should be given to the latch lock. A type with the heaviest 
mechanism ami best materials in the smallest case, should be selected; 
and thai type, in one of its various forms, should be used throughout 

to the exclusi »f all other forms, unless unusual conditions require 

other appliances as, lor example, where doors are to be locked 
from both sides, in which ease the dead bolt is necessary, which can 
be operated only by key from either side. With this, as with all 
hardware, t h e 
simplest form is 

the best. Locks 



which have pe- 
culiar combina- 
tions, s ii c h a s 
turning the key 



u 




Pig. 32. < '-11111111 mi Type "f Bit Key. 



in a certain way to operate one bolt, and further in the same way 
or in an opposite direction to operate the second bolt, are to be 
avoided. They afford no additional protection, and are often confus- 
ing in the extreme to the owner. The distance between the center 
of the knob and the face of the lock should never be less than 2\ 
inches, and it is better to be 3 inches. If less, the fingers of 



HARDWARE 21 



the operator will be pinched between the knob and the door- 
frame. 

The key is an important item, and selection of the style of key 
should always be with strict reference to the use of the lock. The 
latch-key will be in daily use and carried by several persons, and 
should be of the smallest flat-key type (Fig. 31), with a distinctively 
shaped hand end so that it can readily be distinguished at all times 
from desk or drawer keys on the same ring. 

If a dead bolt is used, its key should be of the larger type of 
hit hey (Fig. 32). This is inconvenient to carry away, is not easily 
lost, and can generally be found at the rare intervals when it is needed. 

All keys should be strong, whether flat or bit. Delicate keys are 
often twisted off when the lock "sticks" a trifle, or — which happens 
more frequently — when they are not inserted quite far enough before 
an impatient wrench is given them. Once bent, they are useless. 
They should be well finished and nickel-plated. Otherwise they 
will rapidly wear the pocket, and become rusted; and a rusty key will 
rarely work satisfactorily. 

It is often desired that locks be master-keyed — that is, so con- 
structed that each lock will be operated by a key differing from any 
other, but also so made that one master key can open all, as in the 
case of office buildings, for janitors' use, and in hotels to accommodate 
the service. This requirement is always unfortunate, as it permits 
the passage of every lock in the series by one key. This is like very 
securely guarding several entrances to an enclosure and leaving one 
gate with but little protection; and it is much better to cause the 
janitor a little additional trouble by requiring him to carry a separate 
key for each lock. If the master key is lost, the only remedy is to 
change the entire line of locks. 

There should be no identifying marks on keys or rings indicating 
the location of the locks they will operate, for, in case of loss, the 
finder would thus be enabled to use them. 

In selecting locks for any particular building, a careful diagram 
or floor-plan should be prepared, on which the swing of all doors is 
indicated and each door numbered (see Fig. 33). A right-hand 
(R. H.) door is one w r hich when opened away from a person has its 
butts on the right-hand jamb; and a left-hand (L. H.) door has its 
butts on the left-hand jamb. All latches are either R. H. or L. H., 



22 



HARDWARE 



while many types are made so that by reversing some of the mechanism 
they can be changed from R. H. to L. H. It is better to get an un- 
changeable latch, which is less complicated in its mechanism and will 
work easier and last longer than one with interchangeable parts. 

The doors on which it is intended to place locks with pass keys 
i Fig. 34) — such as front and back outside doors — should be indicated; 
as should also those doors it is desired to lock on the inside by key 
(as pantry or closet doors, Fig. 35), those it is desired to bolt (as 
bedroom doors, Fig. 36), those requiring simple latches without 



w 


/R H 










/<? P 










\%T~ 




1 






L 












R H ) 

c/ 


II 10 


\L 










c 


\ L c H 


8 V 



R H 
C 



Fig. 33. Typical Floor-Plan Showing Location and Swing of Doors. 

lock or bolt (as doors from hall to dining room, Fig. 37), and sliding 
doors, which recjuire an entirely different type of lock (Fig. 38). A 
bill can be made somewhat on this line : 



Right-hand locks with pass keys, marked R. H.-P Nos. 1- 



Left 

Right " latch 

Left " latches 

Slidinp-door latch 

Right hand " with thumb-bolt, 

" " " key 

Left " " " " 



L. H.-P " 6, 

R. H.-L " 3, 

L. H.-L "12,10 

S " 4, 

R. H.-B No. 5, 

R. H.-C " 7,11,8, 

L.H.-C " 9, 



12 Total locks and latches. 



HARDWARE 



23 





Fig. 3i. Lock with Pass Key. Fig. 35. Latch with Key-Bolt. 







Fig. 36. Latch with Thumb-Bolt. 



Fig. 37. Simple Latcn. 



*24 



HARDWARE 



Upon receiving the locks and latches, there should be attached 
to each a tag bearing the number of the door for which it is intended. 
If the fixtures are not numbered and it is left for the fitter to sort 
them out as he proceeds, there will be confusion before half the items 
are in place. 

Aside from the door locks above referred to, there are almost 
numberless uses to which locks are placed in minor situations; but it 
is safe to say that not over 10 per cent Oi" locks in such minor situations 

are ever used — as, for ex- 
ample, on the cupboard 
door, bureau drawers, 
etc., which, though al- 
ways having locks, are 
rarely locked. It is al- 
ways better to omit a lock 
where there is no actual 
necessity therefor, and 
when the necessity oc- 
curs, to get a lock of the 
best type. A lock oper- 
ated by a flat key is usu- 
ally safe for such places; 
those with the old bit 
key are rarely of any pro- 
Fig, as. suaing-Door Latch. tective value. 




KNOBS AND ESCUTCHEONS 

These are parts in which the vanity of the owner can be — and 
often is — displayed. The escutcheon is the plate through which the 
key-hole is cut. It is usually combined with that on which the knob 
is placed, and is the lineal descendant of the escutcheon of chivalry 
Inline by knights and persons of distinction. Careful study of 
escutcheons on the doors of houses, will show that much of the char- 
acter of the owner is still indicated thereby. 

With this fact in mind in the selection of hardware, special 
attention should be given this feature. A plain brass or bronze plate 
ami knob is usually a safe selection; but even then such items as its 
thickness or the way the edge is finished tell of conditions governing 



HARDWARE 25 



its selection. When the design calls for something more elaborate, 
it is a mistake to be confined to simple, plain work; but under no cir- 
cumstances should a knob and escutcheon of elaborate or ornamental 
character be selected simply on account of such character when the 
surroundings do not call for display. 

The escutcheon, at the point where it receives the shank of the 
knob, should always, even in cheap work, be so enlarged that it will 
project over the shank of the knob at least a quarter of an inch and 
fit closely; this stays the knob and gives it a firmness when gripped 
not otherwise obtained. The escutcheon plate should also be long 
enough to extend both above and below the lock; if it does not do so, 
the screws that fasten it in place can rarely be long enough to hold 
it firmly, as the side of the lock is usually within vj or ' inch from the 
surface of the door. The screws securing an escutcheon should 
always extend one inch into the wood. 

A great variety of materials are used for both knobs and escutch- 
eons — wood, glass, iron, brass, bronze, and metal plated with silver 
or even gold — and designers have produced many very artistic as 
well as many very much over-elaborated forms, which are easily cast 
in metal — sometimes with unfortunate ease, as it permits the repro- 
duction of designs cheaply and has therefore encouraged their use in 
many cases where it would have been better to omit a large part of the 
ornamentation. This cast ornament is an American feature of hard- 
ware, that produced in Germany, France, or England being more 
generally of the wrought type, artisans in those countries being skilled 
beyond the American in forged work. 

The knobs, and the spindle that connects them — which together 
operate the latch — are primarily mechanical contrivances, and should 
be considered as such. The old scheme of making a solid spindle 
which was secured to both knobs by screws through the shank of the 
knob running into the nearest hole in the spindle, the play being taken 
up with thin washers, was always bad, inasmuch as, when enough 
washers were put in to make the knob feel solid and to prevent its 
rattling, it was usually so tight as to bind. The screw always works 
loose, and being small is lost as soon as it drops out. Before a new 
screw is found, some of the washers very likely disappear; and if new 
ones are not obtained, the knob remains permanently loose. 

Many devices have been provided to do away with these defects 



26 



HARDWARE 



in mechanism. In one of these devices, the spindle end is in three 
pieces, the middle one wedge-shaped. A screw through the shank 
bears on this wedge-shaped piece, thus expanding the two others 




Fig. 86. 



End of Expanding 
Spindle. 




against the sides of the slot in the 
shank (see Fig. 39). In practice 

il is found that this screw when 
set hard against the wedge does 
not work loose; he fore it is set, 
the knob can be most delicately 
ml justed without washers; and if the screw should work loose, notice 
would at once be given by the slipping of the knob before the screw 
was lost. 



Knob-Holding Device, Adjusted 
by a Thread. 




Fig. 41. Knob-Holding Device without Spindle. 



Another but somewhat more expensive device is that illustrated 
in Fig. 40, in which the knob can be delicately adjusted by a thread 
so that an exact fit can be obtained. 



HARDWARE 



27 



There are other devices in which the spindle is entirely dis- 
pensed with, and the knobs are slipped into the lock-case independently 
of each other, as in Fig. 41 . 

Where locks with pass keys are used so that stopwork changes 
the latch into a lock, it is desirable that one side only should be 
affected. The spindles of such locks are, therefore, jointed in the 
lock with a swivel-connection which allows at all times a free move- 
ment of the inside knob or key (see Fig. 42). 



Fig. 42. Spindle with Swivel-Connected Ends 



Door knobs should be from 6V to 7 inches in circumference, 
whether round or oval, to be gripped with ease; if larger, they should 
accompany locks which allow them to stand far enough out from the 
finish to prevent the hand from being pinched or bruised in turning 
the knob or opening the door. This distance, for ordinary knobs, is 
given under Locks as 2] to 3 inches, which distance should be increased 
if a larger knob than ordinary is used. A perfectly plain knob is 
rarely out of place, while any attempt at ornament is more than likely 
to appear so. For ordinary work, 
spun brass knobs wrought from thin 
sheet metal (Fig. 43) are very serv- 
iceable, and have the appearance 
of the genuine cast metal. With 
the plated butts, they make a good 
combination (though they will not 
stand blows without indentation), 
and for most purposes are as serv- 
iceable as the cast metal. In better work, however, the. cast brass 
or bronze should preferably be used, in which the metal is cast 
from \ to 1 3 6 inch thick; these are the strongest type used. 

For the last few years there has been a tendency to adopt the 
types of Colonial days, and nowhere is this tendency seen more than 
in hardware. And with these designs have come some of the olden 
appliances, the most prominent of which are latches and knockers. 
The former are most useful, and, when applied in proper locations, 




Spun Brass Knob. 



28 HARDWARE 



have a charm which knobs do not possess; but in the case of mortised 
fixtures of the type usually operated by knobs, they are frequently — ■ 
in fact, generally — out of place. 

Knockers as now used are only for ornament, being rarely used 
by callers for summoning the inmates of the house. 

SASH HARDWARE 

In all the range of house hardware, there is none so unsatisfactory 
as that used in connection with window-sashes. This is not alto- 
gether the fault of the hardware, as the customs regulating the manu- 
facture of the sashes themselves make them the most flimsy part of 
house construction. The glass is wide, and the meeting rails narrow. 
Soulier or later someone tries to force up the lower sash when "stuck," 
by pushing violently on its top rail, or tries to pull down the top sash 
by pulling on its bottom rail; these operations pull the rails away 
from the glass, and if, when "fitted," there was not considerable play, 
the sashes never come together again. Any sash-lock adapted to 
such a position must necessarily be far from exact in its working. All 
work perfectly in the model ; few work at all on the real sash. There- 
fore, in selecting this fixture, it is wise to pick out the strongest which 
will allow for variation in the rails, and, before purchasing, to visit 
si >me house in which they have them installed, in order to see how they 
work. The material of which sash-locks are made makes little differ- 
ence, as they arc generally out of sight. Little attention need be paid 
to representations that certain kinds can be opened by means of a 
t'niu Made inserted between the sashes from the oustide; for, after 
one has seen the difficulty of workingthem from the inside by the usual 
means, he will never be troubled by the thought of anyone working 
them from the outside with a putty-knife. 

There are certain kinds which throw up the arm against the glass 
of the upper sash when unlocked. This kind should not be used, as 
they at once give notice to anyone outside, if the window has been 
left unlocked. 

Window pulls or handles on the lower sash are always very 
difficult things to get a "purchase" on with the ends of one's fingers 
when the sash "sticks;" and while the socket in the top sash with a 
pole and hook to move it, is a trifle the most exasperating of any part 



HARDWARE 29 



of window hardware, manufacturers have as yet failed to remedy the 
trouble. 

There are on the market quite a large number of complicated 
devices for operating sashes, either swinging them into the room or 
sliding them up and down; but in practice the old trouble of flimsy 
sash construction makes such devices of no more value than those of 
the old form. It is doubtful whether any remedy will be found until 
custom requires the use of smaller glass, of sash bars to stiffen the 
sash, and of better carpentry work in fitting, and requires owners to 
keep all parts of sashes and frames thoroughly oiled to prevent the 
constant absorption of dampness, thus preventing swelling and shrink- 
ing with their concomitant effects of sticking and rattling. 

"When sashes are hung at the side — as is frequently the case — 
they should swing outward ; if they swing inward it is difficult to keep 
out storm water. For holding them at any required angle, bars are 




Fig. U. Sash Fastener. 

made with clamp screws (Fig. 44). These work very satisfactorily; 
but, unless great care is exercised to leave the sash always firmlv 
clamped, sudden wind may wreck the sash and glass, leaving no pro- 
tection from the storm. As a general thing, accordingly, it is better 
to retain the old sliding type of window, especially since, with swing- 
ing windows, the use of outside blinds is impossible. 

The sash-puller/ (Fig. 45) is out of sight, and often almost any- 
thing in the way of material and make is considered good enough. 
This particular piece of hardware, however, receives so much wear, 
and is capable of wearing out so much good window-cord, that, if the 
future is to be reckoned with, care should be taken in its selection. 
First of all, the wheel should be as large as possible, as the constant 
crimping of the sash-cord over a wheel of short radius rapidly destroys 
the fibre, so that after giving great annoyance for a time by becoming 
caught in the wheel, the cord finally breaks and lets the weight drop 
to the bottom of the pocket. 



30 



HARDWARE 



For plate-glass windows or wide, heavy sash, chains are gen- 
erally employed. They are composed of links which follow the curve 
of the wheel (Fig. 46), and are not easily worn out. The groove in 




ANTI- FRICTION 




Sash Chains 



Ig. i" Sash Pulley. 



the wheel should be square to conform to 
the lines of the chain, and not as for cord 
(see Fig. 47). 

The pocket in which the window weight runs, should never be 
less than two inches in depth (crosswise), nor the pulley-style less than 
; of an inch thick. Thus it will be evident that to allow the weight 
to hang in the middle of the box, the wheel of the pulley must be not 

n_.^ less than two inches in diameter 

\ J on its running face; that is, the 

diameter of the wheel should al- 
ways be equal to the thickness of 
the pulley-style plus one-half the 
depth of the box (see Fig. 48). 
The diameter here indicated is 
considerably larger than that of the 
pulley wheel used in common practice. If, however, a smaller wheel 
is used, not only is the cord rapidly destroyed by the constant crimp- 
ing, but the weight "drags" on the back of the pulley-style, making 
the operation of the sash difficult and noisy. 

Pulley wheels are generally measured by manufacturers and 



Sections or Sash Pulley Kim- 
a for Chain; is tor Cord. 



dealers, to the outside of the flanges, so that a wheel two inches on 



HARDWARE 



31 



the running face is often styled a 2-V-inch wheel. The money invested 
in such a wheel is gained many times over in saving the annoyance 
and expense of broken sash-cord. 

If the pulley is steel-bushed and has roller bearings, it will be 
better in the long run, and these items add little to the expense. The 
running face of the wheel should be smooth; and all parts may be 
of iron, without detriment to the appearance or the usefulness of the 
fixture. A plain brass or 
bronze face and wheel are 
to be preferred, however, if 
the small additional expense 
is not a bar. 

The pulleys usually put 
in stock frames are 1 j-inch 
iron pulleys costing about 
50 cents a dozen; and 10 
cents a dozen is usually ad- 
ded for each additional 
quarter-inch in the diameter 
of the wheel, though the 
mill man will often want 
a little extra for making 
the frame "special" in case 
the larger wheel is used. 
The brass wheel with roller 
bearings and brass face will 
cost about three times the 
above price — or, possibly, 
50 cents extra for each 
window. 

There are on the market very useful pulleys over which the 
sash-cord can be carried to boxes several feet away (Fig. 49). Pulleys 
of this type can be used w r here the mullions between windows are too 
small to carry the weights. These pulleys dispense with the neces- 
sity for lead weights, which are expensive and are usually crowded 
into boxes so small that they work unsatisfactorily. By the use of 
combinations of these pulleys, the cord can be carried an indefinite 
distance to a box capable of receiving a large iron weight, and 




Pig. 48. Section of Pulley and Pulley-Style: Show- 
ing also Sash and Weight. 



32 



HARDWARE 



the width of the mullion can be reduced to the minimum thick- 
ness. 

Sash-cord is a very important item, and braided cotton cord is 
probably the cheapest in the long run. It is better to get a s.mall 
rather than a large size. The wearing of the cord is due to the fact 
thai in passing over the pulley the inside or the part against the wheel 
is compressed or crimped, while the opposite side is stretched, thus 
producing a constant wear and strain of the fibre of the cord, which 
finally breaks it down. It will be evident that this disintegrating 
action will increase with the larger diameter of the cord. A cord 
just large enough to hold the weight safely, is the best. A simple 
tesl is to suspend four of the heaviest weights to be used, by one cord ; 
if it will hold them, it is sufficient size to carry the one weight. 




19. Pulley Arrangement for Carrying Sash Cora to Distant Boxes. 

'Taken as a whole, the window — with its lock which rarely works, 
its exasperating pulls, and its sash-cord broken when most needed — 
is one of the oldest, and still one of the greatest, of modern incon- 
veniences. Undoubtedly the first step necessary to make the window 
more satisfactory, it to make the sash narrower and cut the glass 
smaller, with substantial muntins, so that the sash will be firm. This, 
with a little better workmanship on the frames, will, with present 
appliances, make a very satisfactory window. 

MISCELLANEOUS HARDWARE 

Bolts. The bolt is one of the oldest and simplest contrivances 
for securing different parts in a desired position, and is still a most 
necessary item of hardware. Here, weight of metal counts for as 
much as, if not for more than, in most other items of hardware. 
This weight should be balanced in the different parts to insure strength 



HARDWARE 



33 



of the whole, .-i heavy moving rod, for example, in some bolts, is 
made to engage with a thin keeper-strap attached to the base by very 
slight tenons headed over, so that, while it is probable that it would 
take 2,000 pounds pressure to break the rod, a pressure of 100 pounds 
might be sufficient to force the keeper-strap from its base (sec Fig. 
50). Inasmuch as a bolt cannot be picked like a lock, its value lies in 
its strength to resist force, and this should always be remembered in 
its selection. 

As a general rule, all bolts operated by a sunken thumb-piece 
(Fig. 51) should be avoided, for, if they "stick" — and they generally 
do — very little power can be exerted by the end of a thumb. There 
are many lever and knob devices which permit the direct application 
of a considerable power. Two forms of these devices are shown in 
Figs. 52 and 53. This point should receive attention in selecting 
bolts for the standing leaf of a double door, or for cupboard doors. 




Fig. 50. ( :ommon Type of Bolt with Keeper-Strap. 



The rod on a boit should be tapered at the end, as the two parts rarely 
come exactly together so as to permit the rod to enter the keepers; 
if it tapers, it will, as it enters, draw the door to its proper position. 
For drop-front drawers in linen closets, it is necessary, in order to 
save space, to use flush hardware — that is, hardware which does not 
project beyond the drawer front, which should be just inside the 
closet door. Fig. 54 illustrates a flush-ring cupboard catch, which 
will serve the purpose; it is of the type usually seen on store show- 
case doors; in fact, such doors throughout are good examples of the 
arrangement of drop-front drawers. A large size of fixture should 
always be chosen. Stay-chains should be put on each end of these 
fronts, to prevent them dropping below a horizontal position, in order 
both to prevent straining the hinge and to provide a strong extension 
to the drawer when open, whereon to lay linen. 



34 



HARDWARE 



In place of a bolt, to secure the standing leaf of a cupboard door, 
a knee-catch (or elbow) is often used (Fig. 55). This is more con- 
veniently operated than a bolt, requiring no action other than shutting 
the door to catch, and a simple motion to open. The largest size of 
tliis fixture should always be used. 

( 'haiu bolts ( Fig. 56), are most useful in allowing the door to be 
opened a few inches, and yet locking it with a partial security. They 




O 




Fig. 51. Holt with Sunken 
Thumb Piece. 



Pig. 53. Lever Bolt. 



Fig. 53. Knob. Bolt. 



arc often used to permit ventilation, or to allow the inmate to learn 
the character of a caller before fully opening the door. 

The ice-box door of the north piazza (see Fig. 69) needs special 
attention, as a slight crack will allow the warm air to reach and meet 
the ice. A clamp which will force the door into its frame, must be 
used. Fig. 57 shows a good, strong form of such a clamp; ordinary 
strong hinges are suitable for the door. 



HARP WARE 



35 



Door Checks and Springs. These items arc referred to under 
the heading Butlx. A door check and spring consists of a very strong 
spring applied to close the door suddenly, and, in connection with it. 





Fig. 5J. Flush-Ring Cupboard Catch. 

a cylinder in which a piston runs freely until the 

door is nearly closed, when cither the air or 

some oil or other liquid which cannot he frozen 

in the cylinder checks the rapid piston action, 

so that the door is closed easily and without 

a slam (see Fig. 58). These checks cost in place from $4.00 for 

light doors, to $7.00 for those of heavy type. They arc fastened 

on the top of the door, and arc no disfigurement. 



Pig. 55. Knee-Catch. 




Fig. 56. Cham Bolt, Allowing Door to be Partially Opened 

These springs are always in action, so that, if it is ever desired 
to leave the door open, some appliance must be used to accomplish 






HARDWARE 



lliis purpose. As they do not generally permit the doors to swing 
back against the wall where hooks could be used, foot-bolts arc placed 
on the bottom rail; these have a flat top which can be pressed by the 
foot into a slot in the floor. 



BOLT 




Fi^. ST. Refri; era* >r ' lamp 



There are also on the market types of patented bolts, one of 
which, when pushed by the foot, is forced by a strong spring against the 
Moor: the end of the rod is protected by a heavy rubber buffer, the 




Door Check anil Spring. 



friction of which on the floor is .sufficient to hold the door in any 
position i Fig. 59). Fig. 60 is another convenient type of door-holder, 
its method of operation being self-evident. 



HARDWARE 



37 



Kick plate* and push plates, while not often needed in house 
hardware — except, possibly, for double-acting doors — are plates of 
metal not less than y, v inch thick screwed onto the face of the door to 
protect it from wear. The kick plate, as its name implies, is the plate 
put on the bottom rail where persons arc likely to apply the foot in 
kicking the door open. In public buildings, such plates arc often put 
on for ornament; and also, where the surrounding finish is of marble, 





Fig. 59. Door-Holder Actuated by 
Spring Operated by Foot. 



Fig. 60. Another Type of Door-Holder. 



these plates protect the finish of the doors from the soap and often 
acid, used in cleaning the floor and base marble. It is needless to 
say that for such uses, the perfectly plain plate is alone appropriate. 
Push plates are used to protect the finish of doors where persons 
push them open with the hand. If they are not used, the finish on 
the doors soon shows where the pressure is applied, and later it will 
be completely worn off. 



38 



HARDWARE 



Neither kick plates nor push plates should be used except where 
there is a necessity therefor; they are not properly subjects for orna- 
mental treatment; and they add materially to the weight of the door, 
which in its lightest form is a severe strain on the butts. The plain 
face of the metal shows any indentations, and it is difficult to keep 
bright. Careless cleaners, moreover, are apt to rub off the finish of 

the wood, so that the plates 
become surrounded by an 
unsightly fringe of unfin- 
ished wood. 

Sliding=Door Sheaves. 
In many places it is desir- 
able to have the door slide 
back into pockets in the partitions. There are on the market 
many devices for trucks, generally good and inexpensive; but their 
installation and the framing incident thereto are matters of 
delicate workmanship, and if future trouble is to be avoided, it is 
well to see that appliances of this character are put in only by mechanics 
of known skill. After the doors are in and the partitions plastered, 
is a bad time to do the work over. 




Fig. 61. Transom Fixture for Vertical Pivoting. 





Fig. 63. Transom Fixtures for Horizontal Pivoting. 

Transom Hardware. Transoms are generally hung from the 
top or bottom with fast-pin butts; or with pivots in the center of the 
top and bottom rail allowing them to swing at right angles with the 
transom bar, which is called pivoting vertically (Fig. 61), or with 
pivots in the center of each side to allow the sash to swing to a hori- 
zontal position, which is called pivoting horizontally (Fig. 62). 

It is not necessary to refer to the butts here, except to say that 



HARDWARE 



39 



it will generally be more satisfactory to pivot the transoms than to 
hinge them, for, when hinged, it is necessary for the transom lifter 
to carry the full weight of the sash, which it very often fails to do 
satisfactorily; whereas, when pivoted, one side balances the other 
so that the lifter has nothing to do but over- 
come the friction of movement. These 
pivots are simple and easily applied. 

There are on the market patented 
friction pivots of various types, which, 
while allowing the ordinary pivot action, 
hold the sash in any required position, thus 
doing away with the lifter. The transom, 
either pushed or pulled by an ordinary win- 
dow pole-hook to the position desired, re- 
mains as left. To lock it in place, a large- 
size, heavy spring-ring catch is put in the 
top rail, which can be opened with the hook 
on the pole. 

The transom lifter (Fig. 63) is an item 
in which little improvement has been made 
in the last generation. Its operation is gen- 
erally unsatisfactory, and its use should be 
avoided if possible ; but when it is necessary 
to use a lifter, it is advisable to get the 
heaviest rods, to prevent the unavoidable 
spring. 

Cellar=Window Hardware. In this con- 
nection the hinging and locking of small 
cellar windows, above grade, may be con- 
sidered. The sash are usually light; and 
it is not best to swing any portion out, as 
they are so near the ground that the portion 
turned out would be liable to damage. Also, 
it is often necessary to pass things through 
the window into the cellar, and this requires the full opening. The 
sash are particularly liable to shrinkage and swelling — more often 
the latter — which cause them to stick in the frame. Moreover, the 
cellar window is a favorite point for the burglar's entrance. It is 




Fig. 



Transom Lifter. 



40 



HARDWARE 




SASH 



' listener. 



therefore usually necessary to hinge cellar windows with fast-pin 
butts at the fop, to swing inward and up against the joists, and to 
have a strong handle for pulling them out of the frame when they 
Stick, and a simple lock. Fig. 64 shows a simple but efficient device 
fur fastening a cellar window. The screws in the part on the frame 

should be the longest obtain- 
able; and tiie rivet or bolt 
holding the swinging part to 
the plate should be strongly 
secured, so that both points 
will resist any ordinary pres- 
sure from the outside. If a 
burglar brings his "jimmy," it 
is not likely that any appliance 
that can be used on the inside 
will resist its pry. For holding the window open, a strong wire 
hook and eve will be sufficient. 

Wardrobe Hooks. In the selection and arrangement of ward- 
robe hooks, careful study will greatly increase the capacity of the usual 
hanging space. It is a mistake to select one type of hooks, and use 
that throughout; and also 
to consider that hanging 
■ l- confined to the 
walU. For ordinary items, 
common strong wire hooks 
Fig, 65) can be used, set 
closely together; and if there 
is depth to the closet flies 
can be hinged SO as almost 
to double the hanging 
capacity. In Fig. (Hi, A A 
represent the flies hinged on the wall. Arrangements of this kind, 
however, are not suitable for the hanging of garments which are 
required to retain certain shapes. For these articles, long horizontal 
hooks or pins (Fig. 07) should be provided; on these, certain gar- 
ments can be hung close to the wall; while such items as coats can be 
placed on two, one in each arm, so that they will retain their shape 
and hang clear of the pieces against the wall. 




Common Type of Wardrobe Hook 
Made from War 



HARDWARE 



41 





Fig. GO. Swinging Fid's Hung in Closet to Economize 
Hanging Space, 



In i lie more expensive materials, many special types of hooks are 
made For special purposes. They generally have a lower, minor hook, 
while the upper arm extends outward and upward for hanging hats; 
in other eases the upper arm extends out nearly horizontally, and 

/ then dips to sup- 

'mm port a garment 
~& clear of that below. 
_| A very useful ar- 
_^ tide of furniture is 
-pa Irce or standard 
| (for use in bed- 
rooms), to which 
are secured a large 
variety of hocks adapted to the various items of the wardrobe for 
daily use. 

FINISHES OF HARDWARE 
It is necessary that hardware should have some special finish; 
and, as in the case of.wood or marble or any other fine material, the 
object of the better finishes is to bring out and intensify the qualities 
of the material it- 
self. Cheap hard- 
ware is generally 
japanned so as to 
present a smooth, 
shiny blacksurface; 
this is an excellent 
coat for wear and 
for protection 
against rust, and is 
not of objection- 
a b 1 e appearance. 
W here ordinary 
unfinished hard- 
ware is used, it should be painted, varnished, or oiled at the 
same time the wood to which it is secured is finished. "It is also 
well to paint the surface which presses against the wood; if this 
precaution is not taken, moisture may get behind, and resulting 
rust discolor the wood below. 




42 HARDWARE 



Wrought Finish. Wrought iron, forged, is not often used except 
for specially designed work. When it is used, it should be finished 
under the hammer; that is, all the marks of the blows should be left, 
and no attempt made to file or smooth up the parts. The surface 
can be coated later with lacquer or some thin iron paint which will not 
obliterate the texture, in order to prevent rust; but under no circum- 
stances should a coating in the nature of heavy lead and oil paint be 
used. 

Cast Bronze and Cast Brass. These materials (the former being 
from So to 02 per cent copper, the balance tin and zinc; the latter 
from CO to 70 per cent copper, the balance zinc and lead) are the 
most common finishes used in good hardware. They are sold at 
comparatively low prices, the finish being generally in the polished 
natural color, protected by a colorless lacquer. There are, however, 
many variations from this practice — such as strong greens — the 
results 1 icing produced by the action of chemicals artificially applied 
after all mechanical work is done. Some of these effects are very 
striking, but not suitable unless the surroundings are such as to call 
for such peculiar treatment. 

Bo\ver=Barff Process. This is perhaps the most successful of 
finishes for interior hardware. It is applied to either cast or wrought 
iron, and produces an intensely dense and deep black color free from 
gloss, over which no protective coating is needei. It, however, is 
expensiv( — equal in cost to solid cast bronze; and moreover, it is not 
so tougb as brass or bronze, the process tending to make the metal 
brittle. This finish is not suitable for outdoor work in damp climates, 
where rust is apt sooner or later to attack it in such a way as to disinte- 
grate the surface. While constant protection with lacquers might 
prevent or check this action, it is better practice, in exterior work, 
to use a finish adapted thereto. 

Plating. As previously stated, this form of finish is used exten- 
sively in connection with butts, to make them correspond with the 
genuine brass or bronze used in knobs, etc., where plating would soon 
be worn off. For such purpose it is appropriate and enduring; but 
for exterior work, plating should not be used. Silver and gold plating 
are employed to a limited extent, but on account of the expense they 
are little used except in specially designed work. 



HARDWARE 43 



SELECTING AND BUYING HARDWARE 

There is no part of the building process in which the necessity 
for absolute system is greater than in selecting and making out a bill 
of Hardware. To illustrate this point, let us take the example of the 
Colonial House of which detailed plans are given in the section on 
"Estimating" in Volume II. It is surprising to find that there are 
required approximately 50 types, exclusive of nails, screws, butts, 
etc.; and that there are 1,100 pieces of these various types required in 
tin's one building. Hardware is expensive to buy, and expensive 
to put on. If these eleven hundred pieces get mixed, a large amount 
of valuable time is consumed in getting them arranged; if too much 
is bought, the excess is a loss, as it is difficult to return broken lots; 
if not enough is purchased, the loss of time in going over the work 
again and again to find what is missing, is expensive; and waiting to 
have delivered the last belated portions of material still lacking, is 
exasperating. 

Therefore the first thought should be to place the whole matter 
in such orderly shape that every point in connection with the selection, 
arrangement, and distribution is settled, and so clearly noted that 
future uncertainty relative to any point will be impossible. It is also 
necessary to determine the exact cost of the entire bill before deciding 
on any of the types; and only with a complete list is it possible to find 
just the relationship between the cheaper -and better lines. 

For all these reasons, a most useful purpose will be served if we 
now proceed to set forth in detail, step by step, a scheme for preparing 
bills of hardware, so arranging the items that definite and intelligent 
decision can be made, and serving also as a guide to the expeditious 
and accurate arrangement and distribution of the materials to the 
proper points for installation. 

It is evident that the types at each point must be practically 
the same for all grades. Thus, for instance, a door requires butts 
(4x4 or 5 x 5 inches) irrespective of whether they are wrought-iron , 
japanned, bronze-plated, or solid cast bronze. Two knobs are 
required whether "Mineral" jet, wood, glass, or bronze is used. 
Therefore, in proceeding, the question of quality of material will 
generally be disregarded, except in cases such as knobs, where it is 
desirable to use a better material for the selected type in the major 
rooms and a cheaper material in the minor. 



44 HARDWARE 



After the list is completed, it can be made out in three forms — 
the first designating the cheapest line appropriate; the second desig- 
nating a line of inter; nzdiate grade; the third, the best grade which is 
suitable. 

In preparing these three lines, there are many appliances which 
will not be varied. In the case of locks, for example, a thoroughly 
good grade should be used in the cheap line; there is no advantage to 
be gained in selecting expensive locks of the more intricate mechanism 
and more elaborate design, even for the better-grade schemes. 

After these bills have been prepared, figures can be readily 
obtained on each, so that an intelligent decision based thereon can 
be made. 

Listing the Items. The first step is to lay out the floor-plans, 
showing every point at which hardware is required (Figs. 68-71). 
Doors should be indicated with their swing right-hand (R. H.) or 
left-hand (J,. II.). In the case of windows, it can generally be 
taken for granted that small cellar windows, unless otherwise indi- 
cated, are hinged at the top to swing up against the first-floor 
joists, and that all other windows, unless otherwise indicated, are 
double-hung with cord and weights. The location of china closets, 
pantries, linen rooms, etc., in which are cupboards, drawers, hooks, 
etc., should be clearly shown. These plans should be very simple, 
carrying no details except those necessary to indicate the need for 
hardware at the various points. It is better to make the drawings on 
tracing cloth or onion skin, so that after the hardware is designated 
thereon, prints can be taken for the use of the workmen. 

On these skeleton drawings, every point requiring hardware 
should be numbered. Thus, 

Basement Doors should begin with 1. 2, 3, etc. 

" Windows should begin with 50, 51, 52, etc. 
" Closets, cupboards, etc., should begin with 90, 91, 92, etc. 
First-story Doors should begin with 101, 102, 103, etc. 
" " Windows should begin with 150, 1.51, 152, etc. 
" " Closets, cupboards, etc., should begin with 190, 191,192, etc. 
Second-story Doors should begin with 201, 202, 203, etc. 

" Windows should begin with 2.50, 251, 252, etc. 

" (Insets, cupboards, etc., should begin with 290, 291. 292, etc., etc. 

In this way the floor on which any number occurs can be recog- 
nized. Breaks in the numbering should be allowed, as it will be 



HARDWARE 



45 



found, in working out the later details, that certain points haw been 
overlooked, and numbers can then be assigned which will not neces- 
sitate any rearrangement. 

It. will be noticed that in the above scheme of numbering, we 
have subdivided our hardware into three distinct lots — namely, 
for doom, for windows, and miscellaneous items. It is well throughout 




Fig. 6S. Basement Plan with Hardware Items Indicated. 

to keep these subdivisions entirely distinct, as in this way all liability 
to confusion will be practically avoided. 

The second step is to make a list of appliances which will be 
required under the various divisions. Thus, under the heading 
Doors, we shall have 

Butts of various sizes, 
Locks " " kinds. 
Etc. Etc. 



46 



HARDWARE 



Under the heading Windows, we shall have such items as 

Pulleys, 
Sash-locks, 

Etc. Etc. 

Under Miscellaneous, the list would include such items as 

Hooks. 
1 tower-pulls, 
Etc. Etc. 

Each item in this list should be numbered; and, to prevent con- 
fusion, designating letters should be attached, indicating the division 



6765 64 63 

193 




Pig. 



x 151 
First-Floor Plan, with Hardware Items Indicated. 



tn which it belongs. All numbers for door hardware, for example, 
should carry the letter D, as D 1, D 2, D 3, etc.; those for windows 
should carry the letter W, as II' 50, II" 51, II" 52, etc.; and those for 
miscellaneous items should carry the letter M, as M 90, M 91, M 92- 
etc. 

The third step consists in placing on the drawings, under each 
door, window, or miscellaneous item, the designating numbers of 
the hardware appliances required, so that it will be possible, by 



HARDWARE 



47 



merely referring to the plan, to ascertain just the hardware that will 
be required at each point. Several prints of these drawings should 
be made, as the successful placing of the hardware is dependent on 
following without deviation the lines thus laid down. The placing 
of a few items in wrong locations would produce confusion throughout 
the whole line. 

The fourth step is to take three sheets of ordinary section paper 
ruled to quarter-inch squares each way, and to place on these sheets 
respectively, up and down at the left-hand edge, the layout numbers 
of the doors, windows, and miscellaneous items. (See Quantity 




257 

3132 38 39 40 41 
SO 5152 53 

258 

31 32 38 39 4041 
5051 52 53 



259 

31 32 38 39 10 41 
50 51 52 53 



261 
31 3S 38 
39 40 41 
50 51 52 33 



262 

31 32 38 
39 40 41 
50 51 52 S3 



Fig. 70. Second-Floor Plan, with Hardware Items Indicated. 

Sheets, pages 52-54.) Also, across the top of the sheets, place the 
designating numbers of the different items of hardware required 
under each division. Then, in the squares at the intersections of 
the lines running from the plan numbers and those dropping from 
the hardware numbers, note the quantity required. 

There will be many occasions when for several doors or windows 
the same fixtures will be required. This condition is apt to breed 
carelessness, and mistakes are likely to occur for lack of distinct con- 
sideration of each item. If, through lack of care, three or four unneces- 
sary appliances are included, their cost will more than offset the 
entire expense of making a careful bill in the first place. 



48 



HARDWARE 



As an example of how mistakes are liable to occur, note the 
window indicated between windows Nos. 255 and 256 in Fig. 70. 
This window, being on the stair, is shown in both the first and second 
story floors, and the hardware therefor was included in the first-story 
items. Unless distinct consideration is given to each item, it would 
be a natural mistake to double the order for this window; it would also 
be a natural mistake to include blind hardware for 15S, 160, 161, 
and 162; but, by carefully examining the elevations, it is found that 
no blinds are required. Further, unless the detail sections through 
the pantry are studied, the arrangements for drawers, cupboard, 
flour-box are not understood. 





31 38 39 40 



352 



351 



31 3S 39 10 



Fig. 71. Attic Plan, with Hardware Items Indicated. 

The sheets are completed by adding the numbers in the vertical 
columns to obtain the exact number or quantity of each item required. 
The success of this entire scheme depends on absolute accuracy. 

At this point is it very desirable that the results be proven correct. 
It is generally useless to go over the work a second or third time, 
following the original line, since the same mistakes are generally made 
each time. Some independent line, accordingly, should be selected, 



HARDWARE 49 



in order to detect errors. A simple method is to add the number of 
appliances required for all points on the various plans, and then add 
the numbers on the sheet last prepared ; if these sums agree, it is rea- 
sonably certain that no mistakes have been made. 

For instance, counting the items required for doors throughout, 
we find we have as follows: 

Basement 14 items 

First Floor 55 " 

Second Floor 4S " 

Third " 6 " 

Total. . . . 123 items required for doors. 
Adding up our quantity sheet, allowance has to be made when 
more than one of the items is useil at one point. For instance three 
butts are required for each door, but they are noted on the plan as 
only one number. 

We obtain the total of the items from the quantity sheet, as 
shown on page 52, as follows: 

Under D 3, the total 93 4- 3 = 31 items. 

" D4, " " 18-3 = 6 " 
Item D 5, is doubled at one point, so that total 3—1 = 2 items 
Items D 6 to D21, inclusive = 81 items. 
D 22 is only one item on the plan = 1 " 
D 23 and D 24 =2 '.' 

Total 123 items. 

In case the totals do not agree, add each floor on the quantity 
sheet so as to locate the discrepancy on one floor. When so located, 
it can be quickly found. 

The fifth step is to incorporate the quantities now found in a 
bill or list which should distinctly state the character and quality of 
each, and include the requirement that all necessary screws shall 
be provided. In doing this, the separate items may be described 
in detail, or referred to under their catalogue numbers (if catalogues are 
at hand). Ordinarily, however, the most economical plan is to take 
the list to a dealer, and find what he can furnish the cheapest to meet 
each requirement. 

CATALOGUES 

It is entirely outside of the province of this paper to attempt to 
catalogue the hardware now made. There is no line of manufacture 



50 HARDWARE 



in which the details are more intricate, and few retail or even whole- 
sale stores carry a full line of any particular make. To persons 
interested in the purchase of hardware, it is suggested that upon 
request the manufacturers will forward catalogues showing their 
various lines; or such catalogues can be borrowed from a retail 
stoic. Any order for other than the commonplace, low-priced, stock 
hardware will generally be filled at the factory. 

Any prices quoted in any textbook, can be taken only as a general 
guide; and it must be remembered that prices of hardware are espe- 
cially liable to fluctuation. In busy times, it is often difficult to 
obtain a "bill of hardware" even at full market prices; whereas, when 
a slight easing off in business occurs, manufacturers and their agents 
not infrequently make material cuts in prices, in order to keep their 
shops full during the quiet season. 

When work on any bill has reached this point, it is evident that 
the buyer can soon reach a decision as to whether it is necessary 
for him to buy a lower grade of hardware than he first intended, or 
whether he can afford a better. 

Under the more common, slipshod way of buying hardware 
a man selects a few of the more prominent items without reckoning 
the cost of the numerous unlisted class, and is generally disappointed 
at the conclusion in two ways — first, in finding the number of items, 
and their expense, about double his first idea; and second, in finding 
that he has bought a lot of appliances not suited to his wants, costing 
as much as the items which were desired, but which his lack of fore- 
thought and system prevented him from getting. 

Following the lines above laid down, our layout plans will 
appear somewhat as illustrated in Figs. 68 to 71; and our memoranda 
will have assumed a form something like the following: 

Hardware for Doors 

7)3 Loose-pin japanned iron Imtts, with tip, 4 in. x 4 in 

D4 •• " " " " " " 5 in. x 5 in. 

/>."] Plain tee-hinges, 1 I in. 

Z)6 Knob-latches, JR. H. 

Dl " " L.H. 

D8 " " stopwork and pass key, R. H . 

D9 " " thumb-bolt R.H. 

D10 " " " " L.H. 



HARDWARE 51 



Dll Knob-latches, dead bolt R.H. 

D12 " ' L.H. 

D13 Sliding-door latch. 

Z)14 Mineral knobs. 

Dlo Iron store-door latch, with thumb-piece. 

DIG Jet knobs. 

D\~ Padlock and hasp. 

D IS Chain-bolt. 

2)19 Sliding-door hanger 

D20 Refrigerator clamp. 

D21 Double-acting but Is 

D22 Push-plates. 

D'2'i Heavy iron bolt. 

£>24 Push button for electric bell. 

Hardware for Windows 

TT30 Fast -pin plain iron butts, 3 in. x 3 in. 

TT31 Pulleys, 2 in. on running face 

WZ2 Sash-lifts, Hook. 

TT33 Heavy cellar-window fastener 

TT34 Loose-pin butts, 5 in. x 5 in., same asD 4. 

TT35 French window hit eh, L.H. 

TT36 Extension bolt. 

TJ'37 Wire hook and eye. 

T1'3S Sash lock. 

TT39 " cord. 

TT40 " weights. 

TT41 " sockets. 

TT42 " hook. 

TF50 Blind hinges. 

TT51 " hold-backs. 

TT52 " catches. 

IF53 " adjuster. 

Miscellaneous Hardware 

It/60 Towel hooks. 

it/61 Coat hooks. 

A/ 62 Wardrobe hooks. 

.1/63 Wire closet hooks. 

il/64 Knee-catches. 

AT 65 Cupboard spring catches. 

.1/66 Drawer-pulls. 

.1/67 Loose-pin butts, with tips, 3 in. x 3 in. 

A/68 Fast-pin " no " 2 in. x 2 in. 

3/69 Toilet-paper holder. 

71/70 Pivot for flour-box (1 pair). 

il/71 Chain to hold drop-front drawers. 

Af 72 Flush-ring cupboard catch. 



52 



HARDWARE 



Quantity Sheet, Door Hardware 





D 
1 


D 
2 


D 
3 

3 

:: 
:. 


D 
4 


D 
5 


D 
6 


D 

7 

1 

■ 
1 
1 

1 


D 

s 

1 
1 

■2 


1) 
9 

1 

1 
1 

1 

1 


D 
10 

1 

l 

1 
1 

1 


D 

1 1 

1 

1 
1 

1 
1 

1 
6 


D 

12 

1 
1 

1 

1 

1 
1 

1 

1 

1 
1 


13 

1 


i i 

i 
i 

i 

i 

i 

i 
i 


D 

1.-, 

1 


1 

D 

16 

25 


D 

17 

1 


D 

IS 

1 
1 

1 

:; 


•D 
19 

1 
1 


D 

21 

■■ 
1 

1 


1 

D 
21 

1 

i- 
'3 

PM 

1 


D 

22 

2 

2 


D 

23 

1 

1 


D 

24 


i . . . 


I 




3 . : . . 






2 

3 . . .. 
3 




5 








101 ... 






1 


102 










103 






> 
3 

; 


1 

1 




mi 










106 










107 

ins 






3 


3 

Is 


1 

"r. 
- 




11 Ml 

III! 

Ill 
1 12 

1 1 l 
1 15 
116. . 






3 
3 

3 
3 
3 
3 

3 

:< 
3 
■i 
3 
3 

3 

:i 

I 
3 
3 
3 

3 

:■: 

:: 
:: 




1 17 










IIS 

201 

202 
203 

_'iil . 
205 
206 
VI 17 
208 
209 
210 
■'1 1 












2 1 2 










"1 1 








i 
i 

ii 


1 




2 1 5 
216 

30] 






3 


1 




302 






1|- 










1 



HARDWARE 



53 











Quantity Sheet, 


Window Hardware 














11 
3C 

1 
1 
1 
1 
1 

1 
1 
1 
1 
1 

'3 


11 
31 

1 
4 

4 

4 

1 


W 
32 

o 
2 


11 
33 

1 

1 
1 
1 
1 

1 
1 

1 

1 

1 

Xo 

\o 

Xo 

Xo 


TF IT 
34 35 

-r 

q ;; 
1 

x ■ 

Hanlw 
Hurilw 
Harilu 
Hardw 


ir ir 

36 37 

1 

1 

1 

. . 1 

.. 1 

. . 1 

.. 1 

1 

.. 1 

1 

are 

are . . 


W 

3S 

1 
1 

1 


ir 

39 

15 

If, 

-*- 

& 

15 

15 

15 
15 
15 
1.1 
15 
15 
15 
15 
15 
15 
15 
15 
15 
15 
15 
15 
15 
15 
15 
15 
15 
15 
15 
15 
15 
15 
15 
15 
15 
15 
15 
15 
15 
15 
15 


11 
40 

4 
4 

4 

4 
4 
4 

4 
1 

4 
4 
4 
4 
4 
4 
4 
4 
4 
4 
4 
1 

4 
4 
4 
4 
4 
4 
4 
4 
1 
1 
1 
4 
4 
4 
4 
4 
4 
4 
4 


II 
41 

1 

1 

1 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 

1 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 

1 


W 
42 

<u 
to 
3 

1 

a 

a 
bjc 
u 
O 






II 
5C 

3 
3 
3 
3 

3 

3 
3 
3 
3 
3 
3 
3 
3 
3 
3 
3 
3 
3 
3 
3 
3 
3 
3 

69 


TT' 
51 

2 
2 
2 
2 

2 

2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 

46 


H 
5^ 

2 
2 
2 
2 

2 

2 

2 
2 
L> 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 

46 


'I TT 
! 53 


51 
52 
53 
54 
55 
56 
57 
58 
59 
60 
61 
62 

150 

151 

152 

153 

154 

155 

156 

157 

158 


1 




. . . . 
6 1 
6 1 




2 


1 

1 

1 






" " 




159 


\ 












160 


4 
1 
i 
4 

4 
4 
4 
4 
4 
4 
4 
4 
4 
4 
1 

4 
4 
4 
4 
4 
4 
4 
4 
4 
4 
| 


2 

2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 












161 










16° 










163 










164 
165 


















166 










167 








1 


168 








1 


169 








1 


170 
250 








1 
t 


951 








1 


252 










1 


253 








1 


254 








1 


255 








1 


256 








1 


257 








1 


258 








1 


259 








I 


260 








1 
1 


261 








262 








1 


263 








1 


351 








352 


4 
4 
4 












353 












354 














4 
4 
4 
4 












356 












357 












358 


























10 


156 


54 


lO] 12 2 


4 10 


39 


585 


156 


21 


4 


22 



54 



HARDWARE 



Quantity Sheet, Miscellaneous Hardware 





1/60 


1/61 


21/62 
4 


.1/03 


.1/(11 


.1/ 6.") 


.1/ 60 


.1/(17 


ZI/68 


.1/69 .1/70 


.1/71 


.1/72 


90 




1 






9] 


3 




12 


















[90 






1 

1 
1 
1 
2 
1 


1 
1 
1 
1 
2 
1 


3 

3 

3 

4 


2 
2 
2 
2 
4 
2 












Mil 




















192 


















193 


















194 




















I'..-, 














1 






290 


4 




6 






1 






291 








3 




P-, 


'3 






292 
293 








24 
30 
30 












2 
2 










- 
'3 






294 












295 










3 






9:0 


3 


296 




2 




30 
30 










297 


























16 


11 


3 








7 


8 


10 


1 56 7 


7 


2 


1 


9:0 


3 



Based on the foregoing memoranda and quantity sheets, we are 
now prepared to make out a list covering every detail of hardware 
required, and to submit same for ((notation of piiees. This list, with 
prices quoted as current in September, 1007, for cheap, medium, 
and best grades of hardware will assume substantially the form of 
one of the following bills: 



BILL No. 1 

Bill for the Cheapest Grade of Hardware which under any Conditions 
would be Suitabls 

DOORS 

D3 93, 4x4 in. wrought-iron japanned loose-pin butts, Price 

5 knuckles, with tips on pins; 47 pairs (" SO .18. . . .% 8 .46 

DA IS, 5x5 in. butts, same as above; 9 pairs @ .30.... 2.7J 

D5 3 Pairs 14 in. plain tee-hinges © .20 63 

Z)6 4 H. H. plain knob latches, brass front, and strike- 
plate, all interior works of brass or bronze ® .80. . . . 3.2> 

D7 4 L.H. latches same as above @ .80 3.2 ) 

D8 2 11 H cylinder latches with flat pass key and stop- 
work (works same as above) <§ 4 .00 ... . 8 .00 

D9 5 R. H. latches with thumb-bolt (works same as 

above) © 1 .00 5 .00 

D\0 4 L.H. latches with thumb-bolt (works same as 

above) <§ 100 4 00- 



HARDWARE 55 



2)11 6 R. H. latches, dead-bolt, with three tumblers and 

bit key (works same as above) @ 1 .00. . . . 6.00 

2)12 11 L. H. latches, dead-bolt, with three tumblers and 

bit key (works same as above) @ 1 .00 11 .00 

2)13 1 Sliding-door latch, all brass or bronze except case .... 2.15 

2314 11 Mineral door-knobs, round, iron escutcheons, 

common spindles '. @. . 10 . . . . 1.10 

2)15 1 Heavy japanned iron store-door latch with 

thumb-piece .... .20 

DIG 25 Pairs jet knobs, with 23 pairs plain bronze-plated 

escutcheons approximately Hx5* in. @ 34c... 7.82 

and 2 pairs solid bronze similar escutcheons, 1 

pair for front vestibule door, and 1 only for out- 
side of 2nd vestibule door and back hall door 

@ 81c 1.62 9.44 

2)17 1 2*-in. Padlock and hasp, all iron except interior 

of padlock, which is to be of brass and to have 

three tumblers; also chain for securing padlock 

when not in use .... .40 

2)1S 3 Chain-bolts, plain wrought iron, bronze-plated. . .@ .60.... 1.80 
2)19 1 Set. sliding-door hanger and track, with 5-in. iron 

anti-friction wheels .... 4 .00 

2)20 1 Refrigerator clamp, cast-iron galvanized, 6-in. 

lever handle with 6-in. bolt .... .40 

2)21 1 Pair 6-in. japanned iron double-acting spring 

butts 1 . 75 

2)22 2 Push-plates approximately 3x12 in., wrought- 

iron, bronze-plated @ .40 ... . .80 

2)23 1 Heavy iron 6-in. bolt 15 

2)24 1 Solid bronze, plain electric bell push-button .... .20 

Total cost for doors $ 74.55 

WINDOWS 

TF30 10 Pairs 3x3 in. fast-pin plain iron butts @ S0.06J...S .65 

TT31 156 Window pulleys, wheel 2-in. on running face, 
steel pin and bushing, wheel and face iron, 13 
doz @ 1.00. . 

W32 54 Hook-pattern sash-lifts at least lfxl J in. bronze- 
plated iron, 4J doz @ .28.. 

W33 10 Heavy cellar-window fasteners, combined with 

pull, japanned iron @ .08. . 

TF34 6 Pairs 5x5 in. loose-pin butts (same as D 4) @ .30.. 

TF35 2 L. H. French window latches with lever handle 
(similar throughout to No. 7, except that in 
depth they are to be no more than 1 J in) @ .60.... 1.20 

TF36 4 Flush bolts with knob or lever operating device, 
12 in. long, bolt § in. in diameter, all visible parts 
iron, bronze-plated @ 40 ... . 1 . 60 



13 


.00 


1 


.26 




.80 


1 


.80 



5fi HARDWARE 



1.00. . . 


3 . 25 


.30. . 


3.90 


.01|*. 


. 31.50 


.25... 


.44 


.40.. . 


1.60 


.09. . . 


6.21 


.50... 


1.92 


.12.. . 


.46 


.50 


6.42 




$ 76.21 



TT'37 10 Wire hooks and eyes, 4 in. long, wire not less 

than £ in. in diameter (No. 11 gauge) @ .02. . . . .20 

W38 39 Sash-locks, approximately 2Jx2} in., iron, 
japanned, with horizontal action and of such de- 
sign that sash will be drawn \ in., Z\ doz @ 1 . 

ll'3!l 600 feet \ in. braided (white) cotton sash-cord, 13 lbs. @ 
II' II) 156 Sash-weights (iron), approximately l,S001bs. . . .@ 
IT II 21 Flush sash-sockets, 1 in. diameter, iron, 1 J doz . . @ 
T1'42 4 Pull-down hooks, bronzed iron, mounted on poles 

5 feet long @ 

ll.",u 69 Pairs wrought-iron blind hinges @ 

H'51 46 Wrought-iron blind fasteners, 3ji doz @ 

H'52 46 Iron blind catches for sill, 3| doz @ 

H7>3 22 Sets blind adjusters,** rods not less than T B 5 in. in 
diameter, which will hold the blind open at any 
angle up to 00° from the house, If doz 3. 

Total cost for windows 

MISCELLANEOUS HARDWARE 

.1/60 7 Towel hooks, japanned iron, projection 6 in.. .©$0.15....$ 1.05 
1 / . , 1 s Coat " " " " 6 in.. . @ .15.. .. 1.20 

W62 10 Wardrobe" " " " 3iin...@, .03 30 

W63 L56 Wire closet hooks, ItV gross @ .90 98 

t/f.l 7 Knee-catches, iron, japanned, plate on door ap- 
proximately 1x2 in @ .06J. ... .44 

l/r..~. 7 Cupboard spring catches round or T-handles, 

base not less than 2x2 in., japanned iron @ .25. . . . 1 .75 

.1/06 16 Plain iron drawer-pulls, japanned, not less than 

4 in. long, one to be used on each drawer, also one 

on flour-box, 1} doz @ .40. ... .54 

.1/(17 1 I Pairs 3x3 in. loose-pin butts with tips, japanned 

iron, 2 to each cupboard door @ .08. ... 1 .12 

.1/1. s 3 Pairs 2x2 in. fast-pin butts, iron (drop-front 

drawers) @ .05 15 

If 69 2 Toilet-paper holders, nickel-plated, to hold 

rolled paper, and of heavy plain pattern @ .30. . . . .60 

U7H 1 Pair heavy iron pivots for flour-box @ .15.... .15 

.1/71 9 feet of light brass chain, for holding in horizontal 

position drop fronts of drawers @ .01J 14 

M72 3 Flush-ring cupboard catches for closing drop 

fronts to drawers @ .30 90 

Total cost for Miscellaneous Items $9 .32 



* Note.— The price of sash-weights varies materially in different localities, depend- 
ing i in local facilities for casting them. 

** Note.— If of a type combining sill catch for securing blinds when shut, W52 can 
be dispensed with; but under any circumstances WS1 will be required. 



HARDWARE 



57 



Summary 

Hardware for Doors S 74 . 55 

*' Windows 76.21 

" Miscellaneous Items 9 .32 

Total cost for cheapest grade of hardware suitable $100 .08 

The hardware items listed in the above bill are all of a substantial 
character, but of such grade that at no point is money expended for 
the sake of appearances. The total cost, $160.08, is certainly a very 
low amount to expend for hardware in a home of this character. In 
several points, accordingly, changes from the above list can be made 
with advantage, as follows: 

BILL No. 2 
Hardware of Middle Grade in Every Respect Suitable 

DOORS 



D3 All butts for second story changed to a good quality 
bronze-plated butts, making these items: 

35 Pairs, unchanged (ci $0 .18. 

12 Pairs, changed (ii .43. 

D4 9 Pairs, changed to finish as above (ri .57. 

D5, D6, 2)7, Z)S, Z)9, ZH0, Dll, £12, D13, DU, D15, price 
unchanged 

DIG 23 Pairs of jet knobs changed to spun or wrought 
metal, escutcheons not changed but with sen » - 

less spindles (n 86 

2 Pairs changed to cast bronze knobs to go with 
bronze escutcheons (outside doors) (5 1 . 51) . 

D17. 7)18, D19,D20, D21, unchanged 

D22 Bronze push-plates in lieu of bronzed iron (for 
wearing qualities only). 2 (3 

Z>23 Unchanged 

7)24 One solid bronze electric bell push-button with face- 
plate 2 in. x 4 in 

Total cost for Doors 



6.30 
5.16 
5.13 

14.45 



19.78 



. 00 . 



WINDOWS 

TF30, TT31, TT32, TT33, unchanged 

H'34 Changed same as Z>4, 6 prs (S S0.57. 

TT*35 Unchanged 

TT36 Flush-bolts changed to bronze, 4 @, 1 . 35 . 

TF37, TT38, TT39, TT40, unchanged " 

TT41 21 Sash sockets changed, 1 in. x 2 in. bronzed iron . . @, .50 doz 
TF42, 11*50, TT'51, TF52, 1T.53, unchanged 



Total cost for Windows. 



$ 82.07 



5S HARDWARE 



MISCELLANEOUS HARDWARE 

M60,M61,M62, .1/(13, M 64, unchanged $ 3.97 

.1/05 7 Cupboard spring catches, changed to bronzed 

iron (same price as japanned), @ .25. . . . 1 .75 

.1/66 16 Drawer-pulls, changed to bronze-plated @ .60doz. .80 

.1/67 14 Pairs 3 in. x 3 in. loose-pin butts, changed to 

bronze-plated @ .18.... 2.52 

W68, M69, .1/7(1. .1/71. .1/72, unchanged 1.94 

Total Cost for Miscellaneous Items $ 10.98 

Summary 

Hardware for Doors $ 94 .02 

" Windows 82 .07 

" Miscellaneous items 10.98 

Total cost for hardware of middle grade in every 

respect suitable $187 .07 

If it is desired to place the best hardware which is in any way 
suitable for the dwelling under consideration, a bill along the follow- 
ing lines would be made up (not duplicating the detail of the first or 
second bills where unchanged): 

BILL NO. 3 
hardware of Best Grade 

DOORS 

D3 All butts in second story changed to the best quality 
of bronze-plated or wrought-bronze, ball-bearing 

12 pairs @$0.62 $ 7.44 

Unchanged, 35 pairs @, .18 6.30 

li\ 9 Pairs changed to finish same as above @ .75.... 6.75 

!)->, D6, D7, D8, D9, D10, fill, D12, D13, D14, D15, un- 
changed .... 44.45 

DIG 23 Pairs of knobs and escutcheons, changed to cast 

metal @ 1.50 34.50 

2 Pairs not changed from Bill No. 2 .... 3 . 00 

D17, D18, Unchanged 2.20 

D19 One set sliding-door hangers, changed to ball-bearing .... 5.50 

D20 One refrigerator clamp, changed to brass .... .75 

D21 One spring double-acting hinge unchanged .... 1.75 

D22, D23, />24. unchanged from Bill Xo. 2 1 .85 

Total Cost for Doors $114.49 

WINDOWS 
TT30 Unchanged $ .65 



HARDWARE 



59 



TT31 156 Window pulleys, changed to bronze faee and 
wheel, roller-bearings, 13 doz (5 

TT32 54 Flush bronze sash-lifts. 3 in. x 1 J in (5 

TT'33 Same as in Bill Xo. 1 

TT34 6 Pairs, changed to best -quality bronze-plated or 
wrought bronze, ball-bearing (?i 

1735 Unchanged 

TT36 " from Bill Xo. 2 

JI'37 " 1 

U'3s 39 Solid bronze sash-locks, 3 1 doz <S 4 . 00 

IT39 600 Feet sash chain in lieu of cotton cord (§ 

W4Q Unchanged from Bill Xo 1 

Tf'41 21 Sash sockets, same as in Bill Xo. 2 

TT42 4 Bronze pull-down hooks polished poles (Ti 

1Y50, U'51, 1!'52. H'53, unchanged 

Total Cost for Windows 



4. 60 doz. 59.80 


.60 doz 2.70 




.80 


.75. . 


4.50 




1.20 




5.40 




.20 


4.00. . 


. 13.00 


021 


. 13.50 




. 31.50 




.88 


1.00. . 


4.00 




. 15.01 




S153.14 



MISCELLANEOUS HARDWARE 

M60, .1/01, M62, .1/63. .1/61. .1/6.-,, Mm, -U67, .1/6.X, .l/C'.l, .1/711, 
.1/71. .1/72. unchanged from Bill Xo. 2 



S10.98 



Summary 

Hardware for Doors S114.49 

" Windows 153.14 

" Miscellaneous Items 10 98 



Total Cost for Hardware of Best Grade . . . $278 .61 

By comparing the figures of these three bills, it will be seen that 
the price varies as follows : 

Bill Xo. 1 — Very plain but thoroughly sub- 
stantial hardware 8160.08 

Bill Xo. 2 — Varying from the above by us- 
ing more ornamental fixtures 187.07 

Bill Xo. 3 — By using the best material and 

appliances appropriate 278 .61 

Attention is very particularly directed to the fact that none of 
the bills call for designs with other than plain surfaces. For general 
use, where the best results from all points are desired, the scheme 
on which Bill No. 2 is based is by far the best. Few persons would 
ever notice a difference between schemes No. 2 and No. 3, although 
the latter costs nearly 50 per cent more than the former. 



EXAMINATION PAPER 



HARDWARE 



Read Carefully: Place your name and lull address at the head of the 
paper. Any cheap, livrht pa per like the sample previously sent you may be 
used. Do not crowd your work, but arrange it neatly and legibly. Do not 
copy the answers from the Instruction Paper; use your own words, so that 
we may be sun: that you understand the subject. 

1. What is the difference between a hinge and a bvitf 

2. What hardware attachments are desirable when outside 
window blinds are used? 

3. What is the difference between a lock, a latch, and a bolt? 
How is a latch sometimes made to serve the purpose of a lock? What 
is a dead holt? 

4. What is the difference between a right-hand and a left- 
hand door? 

5. How are door knobs prevented from getting loose? 

6 What is meant by flush hardware? (Jive instances of its 
use. Illustrate, if possible, with diagrams. 

7. What are the essential features of a good type of escutcheon ? 

8. Write a brief historical sketch of the development of the 
common nail. 

9. Describe the different kinds of nails now in common use, 
noting their relative advantages for different kinds of work and the 
precautions that should be taken in driving them. 

10. Describe the two main classes of locks, with a diagram 
illustrating each. ^ 

11. If you were asked to inspect the window-sash hardware in 
an up-to-date modern dwelling-house, make out a list of the items 
you would look for. 

12. In joining woodwork, what method is sometimes adopted 
to overcome the effects of shrinking and swelling? 

13. Discuss, giving diagrams, the possibility of the artistic use 
of strap hinges and tee-hinges. 

14. Describe the different classes of door butts, and compare 
their advantages. 



HARDWARE 



15. Compare the use of nails and screws in finished work. 
1G. Draw a diagram illustrating the ordinary method of in- 
stalling sash-pulleys. 

17. Describe, and illustrate with diagram, a method of econo- 
mizing the hanging space in a wardrobe. 

18. Describe the different methods of hanging transoms. 

19. If you had decided to build a house, tell how you would 
proceed to make an estimate of the hardware items necessary. 

20. Give your ideas of the best methods of making a house 
burglar-proof. 

After completing the work, add and sign the following statement : 
1 hereby certify that the above work is entirely my own. 
.Signed) 



JUN 13 1908 



1 






« 



